August 4
-12, 1971
I’ve been
thinking about memory and impulse control recently. That started when I learned
that memory first developed in cavemen as an evolutionary trait to stop people
repeating mistakes especially when consequences could be severe.
This comes
home to roost for me when I'm driving in Toronto’s notorious traffic. Sometimes
impulse control fails me and I bypass a shortcut if access is blocked. Then two
minutes later I'm stuck and swearing at myself for not taking the shortcut.
This
disturbing trait reminds me of all this.
I was in
Mashhad, Iran, in early August of 1971 travelling overland from Lisbon to
Kathmandu. I had
arrived in Mashhad by overnight train from Tehran. I got to Tehran on a four day bus ride
from Istanbul.
Tehran was
tense but safe. I felt the clash of civilizations that Samuel Huntington wrote
about. I saw an emerging western city floating in a cauldron of steamy eastern
soup. The cars, the department stores, the westernized people had an optimistic
air. But there was a gathering storm buffered by a strong police and military
presence.
My first
brush with future Iran happened soon after I arrived in Mashhad when I tried to
walk into a mosque. A woman with a scowl like one of Cinderella’s evil sisters
ushered me out behind a flaming branding iron.
Later I
hooked up with two buddies who had befriended a local.
This man, let’s
call him Ali, was a cop. He was wearing a tailored dark blue suit. Tall and
slim he looked like a Bay Street millennial born before his time. He said he
was a detective. I thought he might be Savak, the Shah’s ruthless secret
police.
Ali relished
in reviewing Iran’s drug laws with us. The law lacked complexity and nuance.
The choice was life or death. If you were convicted of a drug charge your life
ended. This got me thinking about a memory I promised myself I'd never forget.
It's this.
I had met George
in Istanbul a week earlier. George was a local dandy. Well dressed. Well
spoken. He discovered me lollygagging in an outdoor cafe down the street from
the twinned tourist sites; Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque.
We spoke for
awhile. George got to know me a bit. Enough to know I was travelling on the
cheap and would be broke when I got home to Toronto in the fall.
George told
me about how drugs were cheap in Turkey because it was a transit point between
the poppy fields in Afghanistan and robust demand in Europe.
He knew I
was on my way to Iran and said I'd be dumb to buy drugs in Istanbul. Not that
the idea would ever cross my mind. But he did describe how I could make some
easy money to support my studies if I bought a brick of Marijuana in Istanbul
and mailed it home to myself. It would cost 20 dollars to buy, five bucks to
mail and worth possibly a thousand dollars on the street outside Rochdale
College. I had never dealt drugs and really didn't know how I'd sell the brick
in Toronto but I wasn't focused on that then.
I lacked a
constraining memory. So with some excellent salesmanship from George
going over the pros and cons and answering my objections I succumbed and handed
over a crispy blue American Express 20 dollar travelers cheque.
I was to
pick up the brick on the Asian side of Istanbul that night, a ferry ride across
the Bosphorus to the less prosperous slummy side of the city. No problem. I was
standing on the designated street corner in time for the exchange. As the
minutes ticked past I realized two things. Firstly that I had been swindled and
secondly how witless I was to have succumbed to George’s sales pitch. I was
angry at myself and swore that I would remember this night and never do
anything so inane again. A life experience. The constraining memory I needed.
Now back to
Mashhad and my collegial discussion with Ali about the drug laws in Iran. I was
wondering if he could see through me. Did he know I lacked impulse control? Did he know I had missed the point of Midnight Express? Did I look guilty even
though I had no drugs with me? I got out of there fast. Secure with my
constraining memory that would keep me safe.
Alas. Not so
fast. Not so safe.
A week
later, in Kabul, Afghanistan, I could not resist the impulse to buy a hockey
puck sized chunk of hash for a price that would make the merchants at Dollarama blush. So much
for constraining memory.
What's
become of me? I have memories and an abundance good intentions but still not so
much impulse control. I continue to fight to do the right thing every day of
every year.
Sometimes I
wonder if I’ve descended from a strain of cavemen who survived without the
ability to use memory to protect themselves? Maybe so.
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